Leh Trip- Day 7

21 May 07

The day began with packing our luggage and after breakfast we headed to the Airport where a mighty IL-76 would take us back to Delhi. On reaching the airport we were informed that due to bad weather no aircraft had landed since three days. While waiting for our IL-76 there we saw three IL-76, one AN-32 (of IAF) and a civil flight landing. We boarded the IL-76 and I occupied a place next to the Navigator in the lower side of the cockpit which is bubble shaped and transparent made of reinforced plastic for the Navigator to help the Pilot to navigate the aircraft visually. However my intention was to take some most beautiful snaps on our way back till we landed on IG International Airport, New Delhi.

(Our luggage being loaded at Leh Air base)


(Me in front of the Aircraft)


(At Delhi Airport)

Thus ended a wonderful and exotic trip to THE COLDEST DESERT where we have to go again to visit every place again specially the Pyong-pso Lake.

Well, I had gone during the Summer, but could upload it just now thanks to
1) CDC Sem at BPGC-Well the courses were tough and time less
2) Awesomest Net Speed at BPGC- Uploading these images would have taken lightyears.

So here I am, on Christmas eve reminiscencing the great week I had in Leh, the cold, snowy days and the laidback lifestyle of the people living there.

Here is wishing you a Merry Christmas.

Leh Trip- Day 6

20 May 07

It was a Sunday and last day of our trip, although we all wanted to make another attempt to Pangong Lake but could not take chances though the weather was clear but the uncertainty of Leh weather stopped us. So we thought of utilizing our day by paying homage at the War Memorial. It is located near to the Airport. This place is ‘A must Visit’ as it gives an insight about our three arms of the Defense forces and valor during all the wars fought especially the recent ‘Kargil War’. The Kargil war was fought on the highest battle field by our soldiers in the most hostile weather. The photographs of Heroes of all the wars fought since Independence. They have also kept weapons, diaries, I-cards, letters captured from Pakistanis and the clothing used by the soldiers in high altitude.

( Weapons captured at Kargil by Indian Army)

After this we went visiting Patthar Sahib Gurudwara again and decided to climb all the 456 steps to reach the hill top from where the Demon had rolled a huge rock down the hill with an intention to kill Guru Nanak Ji who was meditating while coming back from Afghanistan. Due to his holy power the rock became soft as wax and stopped on his back. The rock is still there with deep impression of Guru Nanak in a meditating position and demon’s footprint on one side which it seems was created when the demon hit it with his feet on seeing Guru Nanak Ji still alive. After which he realized mistake and fell on Guru Nanak Ji’s feet asking for forgiveness. Thence, he became a disciple of the Guru. The Gurudwara is maintained by the Indian Army. We had Guru Ka Langar and set course to Alchi via Magnetic Hill and Sangam.

(Patthar Sahib Gurudwara from Gurudwara flag post-456 steps higher on the mountain)

The Alchi Monastery (Alchi Gompa) is 70 kms from Leh, on the banks of river Indus. The route to this Gompa was very exciting. As inroute we also came across mountains which were naturally carved as pillars of a huge palace, some colourful mountains as a few were yellow and others were green, purple and orange. The road was along side of river Indus. Alchi gompa dates back to the 11th century. It is one of the oldest, largest and a famous monastery with a widely renowned collection of paintings. One of its walls features thousands of miniature-sized pictures of the Buddha. Three large sized images made of clay and painted brightly are its focal attraction. This monastery is maintained by the Monks of Likir monastery and is no longer a place for active worship. The monastery had very low doors. We had to bend very low, and for quite a distance we had to keep stooping so as not to bang the head on the small pathway to inside the Gompa. Initially the monastery was 3 storeys high but now due to the weak structure, nobody is permitted to climb up. Also an ancient ladder made of a single tree trunk, with notches as a step was used to climb.

(At Alchi Monastery)

Near Alchi Monastry is Likir Monastery located around 52 Kms from Leh know as Klu-Kkhjil (water spirits) which was founded in the 11th century AD and was rededicated to another monastic order (the yellow sect) in the 15th century. Its earlier Gompa was destroyed in fire. The present Gompa dates back to the 18th century. It contains huge clay images of Buddha's (past, present & future) and various old manuscripts. It also houses an interesting collection of thankas, old religious and domestic costumes and implements, etc. In the 15th century Lhawang Lodos Sangphu caused the monastery to flourish. This monastery also belongs to Gaylukpa School. Every year from the 17th to 19th of the 12th month the Likir festival is held.
After visiting all the monasteries, we came to know was that the offerings that people make is things that can be kept for a longer time like oil, sugar, rice, and even biscuits & toffees. They don’t offer fresh flowers instead plastic & paper flowers.

(Likir Monastery)

In all the monasteries we observed that they had made small Butter icons which last through out the year due to the cold weather & are changed only annually.

Leh Trip- Day 5

19 May 07

Every one was excited on the fifth day as we were to go to Pangong Tso Lake (154 Kms from Leh) a 130 Kms long lake which is 25% in Indian Territory and 75% in China. We were also to climb the Garnet Hill were, one can find Garnets of various size and shapes. All of us got ready by 0700 Hrs but the weather was packing up and we could see snowing at Khardungla Peak/Hill on the opposite side. However we pressed on and hoped for the best. We had to cross Changula Pass(13,800ft) on the way approximately 70 Kms from Leh. As we were about to reach the snow covered Changula pass, it started snowing initially in the form of fine flakes, which soon changed to snow. We stopped and took some beautiful photographs and videos and continued our journey. The weather God seemed not so happy with our programme and soon we came across vehicles coming from opposite direction, who informed us that due to landslide, it was not possible to proceed further and they were returning back to Leh. We were all disappointed and wanted to hold on for some time but the experienced driver cautioned us to return back as landslides in such weather are common and we can get stuck in the hills for days. So we had no choice but to return back with a heavy heart, but not before spending some time in the open skies some 13,000 feet above the sea level with heavy snowfall. We took some beautiful photographs and a few video shots of snowfall.

(Me and Dad enjoying the snowfall on the way to Pangong Tso)

On our way back, we had our breakfast near a stream with crystal clear water and there we also saw the farmers ploughing their fields with Yaks. They were singing and talking to the yaks.

We then visited Chemrey Monastery which was located on a very high mountain. The Chemrey Monastery is 45 km from Leh, situated in a picturesque valley leading to Changia, this gompa was constructed as a funeral act of merit on Sengge Namgyal's death in 1645. A large collection of scriptures with title pages in sterling silver and the text in gold letters is kept here. Close by is a cave monastery reputed to have been the abode of Padma Sambhav during one of his periods of meditation. Here we saw some of the old Thankas (Wheel of Time) which were torn and we could see very old manuscripts peeping out. We were told by our driver, that people make thankas on fulfillment of their wishes and precious stones, gold, silver etc are kept along with the manuscripts in it. These are to be rotated clockwise signifying that life/time goes on. It also signifies the Kal chakra.

(Potraits of Buddha)

( Wheel of life with manuscripts coming out)

Next stop was Stok Palace. The palace of the banished royal family dates back to the mid 19th century. In the museum they had different sections for period costumes and precious jade jewelry of the royalty, head gears, arms and armor, cutlery and utensils, their throne which was to cater for small built kings of the region, stuffed animals. The Palace museum also has on display interesting historical objects like coins, seals and porcelain. Also of interest here was a sword, which was knotted as a display of anger & strength by one of the royals. It also has a small monastery along with exquisite thankas representing the life of the Sakya Muni Buddha. The Royal family still continues to live here.

(Stok Palace)

Leh Trip- Day 4

18 May 07


The Fourth day was an easy day, where we were to visit the FRL (Food Research Laboratory) of DRDO. The scientists here have developed methods for farming in Leh, even during winter months with Trench Farming or Farming in Glass House type of shelters covered with cheap white polyethylene covered with black polyethylene which is removed every morning as it gets covered with snow .The white/transparent polyethylene is left over the trench/shelters to provide sun light to plants during the day but protect them from harsh winter cold. They now grow fruits, vegetables, dry fruits and even wheat in Leh. They have developed Leh berry Juice from Seabuck thorn plant berries, a plant full of thorns that grows in abundance and in wild. The Scientist are also involved in cross breading of Pashmina goats, sheep, cow, Angora rabbits and crossbreeding horse and ass to have better and strong breed of Mules required by Army, the need of which was felt during Kargil Operations which required much stronger Mules than were being used by army for carrying load in hills. From FRL we reached Leh city where we purchased some mementos /souvenirs.



(Hatcheries at FRL)



(Pashmina Goat and her kid)



(Another Pashmina at close up...)



(Roses in Trench farming)




(Stud farm at FRL)




(Medicinal Plants)


(Turkey..posing for us)


(Yaks at FRL)

Leh Trip- Day 3

17 May 07

The third day also began at 0930 hours and we headed to Khardungla Pass (43 Kms from Leh) which is 18,380 feet above sea level and is the highest motorable road in the world. Khardungla pass is on the way to Nubra valley, Partapur, Thoise and Siachan. The road till TCP (Traffic Control Post) was good but beyond that it is very narrow, mainly as the mountains are soft and full of sand. (Leh is also known to be ‘The Coldest Desert’). Mountains being comparatively young result in frequent land slide and damage the road. It is also due to Small Riverlet’s flowing over and across the road that the road needs frequent repairs which is undertaken relentlessly by our Border Roads Organization (Operation HIMANK). One can only visit these places till Partapur and that too with a valid permit beyond which, the civilians are not permitted. Although the roads were narrow but it was very beautiful as we were slowly and gradually moving on the serpentine roads with every hair pin bend taking us nearer to the clouds. There is no count of the mountains that we crossed. Looking back we could have a bird’s eye view of Leh and Shanti Stupa was the one that we could see from a very far of distance. After crossing the TCP we had another beautiful site which I will like to share with all, as we rarely get a chance to see another spectacle of nature.

(On the way to Khardungla)

(Above the clouds)

There was water flowing below the ice sheets on the mountains on the road side which appeared as if it is frozen water fall however when we stopped and had a closer view we found that beneath the snow the water was flowing, we caught this in our cam. We had an encounter with a beautiful animal called Murmut; it stays underground for nearly six month in a year and comes over ground only in so called summers of Ladakh.

(Playing with Ice at Khardungla)

(At the Highest Motorable Road in the world-18,380 ft)

The highest point, the Khardungla Pass had an army post and a temple. The temple is another 20 feet above, surrounded by snow, which we all climbed. One side of the road which gets a little or no sunshine was full of snow. We all took photographs and played with snow balls and ice sickles which are formed due to melting of ice. (Ice resembling Swords, formed by melting water which gets frozen again). We also took photographs of Fiber-reinforced Igloo type huts used by our brave soldiers from the Mighty Indian Army. After spending an hour we started back for Leh though we wanted to spend more time but chilly winds and low oxygen did not permit.

(Fiber huts( Igloo style) of the Indian Army)

On the way to Leh we stopped at Tsemo Monastery which was closed.

After reaching Leh we set course to Gurudwara Patthar Sahib via Air Force Station and along the river Indus. The Gurudwara is approximately 23 Kms from Leh on the Leh-Srinagar highway. On our way was the Highest bottling plant of LPG from Indane. We had packed lunch and hot tea after the darshan of the holy shrine and moved ahead to Magnetic Point.

(Gurudwara Patthar Sahib)

At Magnetic Point the vehicle parked in a specific place on the road starts moving on its own, against the gravity i.e up hill. Ahead of this was the Magnetic Hill, which it seem causes fluttering to even an aircraft flying over it, as it fall within the Landing Cone and all aircraft taking off and landing from/to Leh have to per force fly over this hill .

(Magnetic Hill, contains iron ore and attracts even aircrafts)

Ahead of this at approximately 4-5 Kms is the Sangam (Confluence) of river Indus (originating from China) and Zanskar (originating from Himachal), where one could clearly see the brown Zanskar water coming from China, mixing with green water of Indus flowing from Himachal and there after becoming Indus river.

(Sargam-Indus meets Zanskar)

On return to Leh we went to Leh Palace. Leh Palace rises from the edge of a hill overlooking the town and stretches out towards the indigo sky. A miniature version of the Potala in Lhasa, the Leh Palace is one of the major attractions in Ladakh. The palace was built in the 17th century and had nine storeys, but it is now dilapidated and deserted. It was the home of the royal family until they were exiled to Stok in the 1830s. Above the palace, at the top of the Namgyal hill, is the Victory Tower, built to commemorate Ladakh's victory over the Balti Kashmir armies in the early 16th century. This palace built for King Singge Namgyal, now houses the Ladakhi branch of the Indian Government's archaeological conservation organization.

(Leh Palace)

We then called it a day at about 1800hrs.

Leh Trip- Day 2

16 May 07

Second day we started at 0940 hours for Hemis Monastery on the Leh-Manali highway. We had to deviate from the main highway to reach Hemis Monastery which is on another mountain. We came across a small Hydro-Electrical Power plant over the River Indus (Sindhu). The Hemis Monastery (Gompa) is 40 Kms from Leh; Hemis is one of the richest, biggest and most famous gompa in Ladakh. Built in 1630, it belongs to the Red sect. Its popularity stems from the major annual festival held during summer in honor of their Guru Padma Sambhava's birth anniversary, every 12 years the thanka with his photograph is displayed - the largest in the world. The monastery houses silver chortens studded with precious and semi precious stones, an impressive library of Tibetan style books, large number of thankas, various images of Buddha and frescoes including the famous "Wheel of Life".

(Hemis Monastery)

On our way back we visited Thiksey monastery where we saw a three storey high statue of Lord Buddha. The Thiksey Monastery is about 20 kms from Leh; Thiksey is an imposing monastery and one of the finest examples of Ladakhi architecture. The 12 storey monastery complex contains numerous stupas, statues, thankas, wall paintings, swords and a large pillar engraved with the Buddha's teachings. The main prayer hall has 15 meters high with seated Buddha figure.

( Thiksay Monastery)

After this we visited the Shey monastery. The Shey Monastery, until the 16th century was the royal residence. The Kings of Leh were supposed to be born in the monasteries. This Palace Monastery has the largest statue of Maitreya Buddha (Buddha to come) in Ladakh. Erected in the mid 17th century, worked out of gold and gilded copper sheets with blue hair, it stands 17.5 meters high.

(Shey Monastery)

All the monasteries are on top of small hills and one has to climb up. We then visited the Shey palace, the capital of ancient Leh. The palace is nearly in ruins but it is once again on a hill top which is usual for a palace or a Fort.

Next stop was on the banks of River Sindhu (Indus), the spot is known as Sindhu Darshan, the place was built by the BJP government to hold their annual convention. Now it’s a picnic spot and a venue for the annual Leh festival. We had our lunch which we were carrying along.

(Sindhu Darshan...in the freezing water)

The next stop was Kali temple for which had to come back to Leh, as this is located next to Leh Airfield. The temple through known as Kali Temple but it is not really Kali Devi but, Mahakal Temple dedicated to Buddhist Goddess Vajrabhairava. The shrine houses Vajrabhairava and her terrifying face is unveiled only at the annual festival in January. The hill on which this temple is located comes in the way for the aircraft taking off from Leh airfield and the pilots are required to immediately clear off this hill which is very difficult also due to light air and requires extra precision and skill. It is said that two times they thought of blasting the hill but both times there was an air crash at the site. Now they have given up the idea.

(The Air field as seen from the Kali temple)

A little below the temple is the Spituk Monastery. Spituk is 8 kms from Leh, standing majestically on top of a hillock overlooking the Indus Valley. Spituk Gompa is from the yellow sect. It houses a collection of ancient masks, antique arms, icons and numerous thankas. Both are over looking the Air Force Station Leh. This Air-strip is used for Civil Flights also.
The last Monastery for the day was a Japanese Gompa which is also known as Shanti Stupa, a relatively new Gompa, just about 15 years old, as compared to others which are 400-500 years old except Alchi and Likir Monastery.

(Spituk Monastery)

(The town entrance-Leh)

Finally, we called it a day after taking a round of Leh Market.

Leh Trip- Day 1

( Pic taken from AN-32 on the way to Leh)

15 May 07

We were all excited as we were going to ‘Leh’. We woke up early and after quick bath were all ready to leave for the airport, we had our flight at 0630 and the flying time from Delhi to Leh was about two and a half hour. AN-32 aircraft took off at about 0700 hrs with half an hour delay due to congestion at Delhi Airport and soon we crossed Shimla/Manali. Behold, I have no words to express my feeling when I looked out, it was snow and ice as far as I could see glaciers and frozen rivers, mountains high and low all snow clad. It continued till we entered the valley. Landing too is a difficult job at Leh Airfield as the aircraft has to maneuver between high mountains to land on a short runway. The aircraft land and take off from only one side as the other approach will be from the Chinese territory. It was indeed a pleasant day and we were neither feeling cold nor breathless, although there were snow clad mountains all around. I think it was all because of the excitement.

We were told to just relax and take it easy on the first day there, as one has to get acclimatized due to oxygen being about 30% less. We spent the whole day sitting in the Mess just enjoying the view from a distance. We were told that Ladakh is called the Hermit Kingdom due to its remoteness and in accessibility. Ladakh is connected to the main land through two roads namely Leh-Srinagar highway and Leh-Manali road. These two roads remain open only during summer months. During the winter, it remains closed for more than 7 months due to closure of the passes (Zojila, Rotang Pass, Baralacha, Changla). Leh District is connected to the Block Headquarter by roads, through a network of roads. The average distance of the block headquarter from Leh is 180 Kms. Bus services and other means of communication is very poor. Border roads organization maintains most of the high way connecting the block head quarter and PWD maintains a road length of 1060 Kms. As some of the roads to the block head quarter passes through the world highest motorable roads, it is frequently closed due to avalanches and snowfall in the passes. Durbuk Block and Nubra Block remains closed in winter months due to closure of Khardongla and the Changla Pass ...

This ended our first day at Leh...

The Nightout...

Yesterday night was my first complete night out( generally used to sleep in the middle of the night...)yesterday i was up throughout the night..first watched a movie...n then packed my luggage cause have to leave for home today....n in the middle walked in Angad at 3 in the night to request us to wake him up at 5:30 AM...cause he has an early morning flight...n cause we didn't feel like sleeping...I made Maggi..n watched another movie....

then woke Angad up at 5:30...n then I, Meet, Pandey n Adi went to see him and Swapnesh off outside the hostel...it was pitch dark n we thought of going for a walk...so we ended up walking for more than an hour...

have just got back to the hostel....m thinking of completing my packing....n then going for breakfast..infact ppl are banging at my door rite now...so i'll end it now...

Here's wishing u happy holidays n a happy new year too....